MG Y TYPE : Replacing the Fabric Covered Rubber Door Draught Excluder by Peter Vielvoye.
I have just replaced this door opening trim and as it took me until the third door to master a satisfactory technique, I thought it would be worthwhile recording how I did it for others to possibly benefit.
The trim can be purchased in two parts from Woolies Trim.
Split Tube Rubber Draught Excluder, part R123
Beige Coach Lacing, part 306.
This material is only sold in beige and as all cars used beige no matter what the exterior or interior colours were it should not be a problem.
For work to proceed, the doors, seats, carpets, floorboards, and interior trim all have to be removed plus the headlining along the top of the doors has to be detached. After removing the rear window blind pull and lace cover strip the holding tacks are exposed.
Disconnect the windscreen winder so that the windscreen can be propped open and remove the wood trim from the sides.
Windscreen out is even better. This rather extreme preparation is the probable reason why so many cars still have rather tatty door trims!
1. Remove the old rubber and fabric trim and all tacks and traces of rubber. Have a good clean of the newly exposed surfaces as the clean material will be brushing against it.
2. The hinge pillar has inserts of plywood strips to fix to, in my case these needed some repair, the insert along the top of the doors was originally a twisted rope. Whatever you have, you will need a firm surface for new bayonet tacks to tack into.
3. Cut off a generous length of the rubber P shaped extrusion that will give a good overlap at the joint and fit it to the metal lip around the door. Cuts and darts will need to be made to allow it to fit smoothly round the corners. Start and finish at the centre bottom as this will be the easiest place to join the rubber on the final fit. Use insulation tape to hold it in place as you work around the door. Make sure the rubber fits tight into the corners.
4. Now decide where you want to join the cover material. I chose half way up the centre hinge post as there were good fixing inserts there and the join would be unobtrusive being near the hinge. Mark this position on the rubber.
5. Remove the rubber and take it to as long a work bench as possible. The material has now to be glued to the flat back of the rubber. Iron a 15mm seem on one end of the material to provide a neat flat finish to the join.
6. You will need a can of spray mount this is a tacky glue that allows repositioning. It is essential to get the right type as it holds the material in place firmly but can be pulled on and off easily. This can be bought from your local art and craft store. Lay the rubber out straight on newspaper and starting from your mark spray the back and rounded edge, wait 30 seconds and press on the material, lining it up with the back edge of the rubber and smoothing it round the curve. Keep working along in stages to the end of the rubber and cut the material off allowing for the final overlap to reach your joining mark. This last couple of feet will have to be glued on in situ.
7. You now need to develop a rolling technique with your fingers to get the material firmly tucked into the interior of the rubber.
8. Cut the material with a sharp knife where the cuts and darts are in the rubber.
9. Take the covered rubber to the door and start fitting it to the lip again starting at your decided material joining point and work upwards . Push it on firmly and tape in place as you go. Tack through the rubber into the insert to hold it firmly against the metal lip. Keep fitting and taping in place and then going back to tack in place permanently.
10. Where there are no inserts you will need to drill and fix with round head self tapping screws.
11. Ensure all the trim is pushed well into the corners of metal lip and mark where the rubber needs to join. Pull the rubber ends back of the lip and cut them with a sharp knife and straight edge on a cutting board so they will butt together squarely. Use Power Bond or similar super glue, hold together for a few minutes till you have a strong joint. Check the length of the trim is correct to fit firmly along the remaining metal lip and into the corners.
12. Pull off the rubber that does not have material glued to it, mask and spray with glue, press the material on as before. Cut the finishing end of the material to fit under the seemed starting end and fit the trim firmly in place. This is where the tacky spray glue makes the job easy.
13. The trim can now be screwed down onto the sill and tacked to the lower hinge post if not already done.
14. If the material looks loose in any place the rubber can be rolled back and the material rolled firmly into the rubber before replacing.
15. Finally where the trafficators are there are no plywood inserts to tack to so stick a strip of gaffer tape along this area to hold the front and rear trim together. This was originally done with staples.
16. Now replace all the things you removed to make access possible and the job is done.
17. Stand back and admire your work.
I tried joining the rubber at the first fit but found that with the material on and the corners more firmly fitted it did not fit well on the second fitting. I had to glue in an extra 20mm piece of rubber.
Originally the material and rubber were joined at the same place by tucking the material around the end of the rubber. I am sure if they had the use of our modern adhesives they would have done it my way. Once rubber is glued with Power Bond you cannot pull it apart.
I found that with the use of spray glue I needed to keep cleaning my hands to protect the fabric from grubby marks. Also make sure you use the fabric the right way up.
Give yourself plenty of time apart from preparation time you need a t least a whole day for each side. I did mine over four days.