A Guide to removing, servicing, and replacing the YB Anti Roll Bar and Bushes.
Looking underneath your YB one day, maybe when having the MoT inspection carried out, it might be that you find the rubber bushes associated with the Anti Roll Bar are split and perished and generally past it. So here is a guide to bringing your YB up to scratch.
The Bar and therefore the bushes are only found on the sophisticated YB and not on the YA or YT so this job is not one for those owners.
First it may be necessary to douse the nuts, bolts, and threads on all the brackets with a penetrating fluid and leave it for a while. The parts in question recieve everything that’s thrown at them from the road and can be a tad corroded. See Neil’s article ( Anti Roll Bar by Neil Cairns. ) for what can happen to the vertical links.
Looking at the photo’s you will see there are 5 rubber bushes each side so 10 in all, these can be obtained from NTG and the Octagon Car Club although at the time of writing the latter did not stock the bushes for the vertical link. However NTG did and the slightly more expensive poly bushes were obtained as it was felt that more resilience in this area would be useful.
Raise the front of the car and make it safe or use the pit that we all wish we had, and then using the appropriate Whitworth spanner undo the nuts on the lower end of the vertical links each side. Place the nut and washers in a safe place. Next undo the nuts that hold the “U” bracket around the bushes that hold the bar onto the chassis on the channel section. This will involve using a spanner on the head of the bolt that goes through the channel section where there is also a spacer in the middle.
With all the above nuts and bolts and the “U” brackets removed the anti roll bar should now come away relatively easily complete with the vertical links at each end. Then the links can be removed by removing the nuts on the top of the link above the top bushes.
Most cars will be a bit mucky underneath so as in the case of the writers the channel cross piece was also removed from the chassis (two bolts and spacers each side) in order to clean up and paint. The links and the anti roll bar when separated can also be cleaned checked and painted.
Sometimes the stud on the vertical link can become corroded and this had clearly happened in the past on the subject car. The situation had been resolved by drilling out the corroded stud and welding in a suitable bolt with it’s head removed, a neat job. This is mentioned in Neil’s article on the anti roll bar; link above.
After cleaning the components can be painted with something like Hammerite or perhaps even powder coated and then the whole lot reassembled.
The pictures adjacent to this text are fairly self explanatory and the parts can be assembled by starting with the chassis cross piece if it has been removed and then hanging the anti roll bar on this with the new split bushes in place inside the “U” brackets and then bolting these up.
The anti roll bar should be fitted so that the ends turn upwards slightly so that when at rest on the ground they are more or less horizontal.
When purchasing the “stepped cone” bushes for the bottom of the vertical link it may be found that these are longer than the originals and have to be trimmed, otherwise it will not be possible to compress them enough to get the washer and nut on the front. They should meet in the middle and the stepped outer end should butt up against the link.
Slide the bushes in the bottom of the link over the front of the bracket attached to the lower wishbone and place the washer and nut on, doing the nut up only partly to make movement of the link easier. Fit the dished washers and Poly or rubber bushes on the top stud and then feed the stud through the roll bar ends on both sides before finally putting the bushes and dished washers on the top of the bar ends on the studs and then tightening up all the nuts as required including those on the bottom of the links.
It may be found necessary to lower the car to the ground in order to position the bar ends so that the top nut can be attached but there is enough room whilst lying on the ground to be able to tighten them.
Give the whole assembly a check over and test drive the car which should feel that bit better on corners.
After driving the car for a few miles it is worth checking that the nuts are tight because the bushes will have settled.
An article by the MGCC Y Type Register.